Coming in at V3 on a vertical wall, this set of crimpers offers advanced grips for the expert-level climber. The crimp itself is close to a neutral incut and 1/4" to 3/8" deep. That is small but an expected depth for the expert climber. For the majority of climbers, use these on vertical to 30-degrees overhanging. In steep terrain like a 45, this set is only for an elite few.
The crimps themselves offer the Golfus dimples along the inside, so nooks and crannies present themselves to all sizes of fingers. In addition, this hold style forces you to find your favored spot for each finger pad. From delicate small fingers to large man-hands, this design style works for all hand sizes.
Getting down to it, once you move these from vertical terrain to slightly overhanging, the difficulty is amplified. When setting with big jug feet, serious, actual jugs for feet, this set feels V7 on a 20-degree overhanging wall. On a 45-degree wall, expect V11+.
The crimps themselves offer several different ways to grip them. You can open-hand them, which is by far the most challenging way to grab, you can thumb-scum, and you can thumb-crimp. What you'll love about these is that your tendons do not get shock-loaded when you do come ripping off of them.
If you can envision snapping your fingers to your favorite song, that's the sound and action Kenny's fingers made when he was moving off of a thumb-scum grip. So even though this set will spit you off, rest assured, your tendons will love you.
Below are the hyperlinks to all three sets.
Total Holds | 5 |
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