XXL Granite Feature #11 (Scooped Sloper / Crimp Rail)

Overview

Feature #11 is a visually stunning hold highlighted by a large scoop that looks and feels like some boulder problems I've climbed on granite. I love that the scoop could almost be considered a V1 feeling jug on vertical, but not because of its slope. Even when you try and cheat onto different parts of that side of the hold, the options are all very different but feel similar in difficulty.

Grabbing it low as an open-handed pinch, crimping down on the lip crimp, or up higher on the off-angled ledge keeps you on your toes. I've set this hold up vertically, with a big move to the lowest section, so you have to bump your hand up the side or fight the barn door when you double up. 

The other side of the hold offers an edge, a ledge, and a sloper. Honestly, the scoop side is so much cooler that I didn't have the heart not to highlight it, though the lower side offers unique intermediates to get set up on the scoop section. A good route setter will choose where to put the footholds to make the magic happen. 

I love this hold on vertical walls for beginners, mainly when you orient it vertically. Expect a V2 feeling, but that's only because the hold responds like natural rock, meaning it is not your standard 'grab and pull-down' kind of hold. You must feel your hand and get a balanced body position to be a rock star on this hold. 

This is a great hold to challenge your setting skills and the crew that climbs on your wall. 

• SIZE: 24" wide x 6-5/8" tall x 3-3/4" standing off the wall 
• V2 on vertical walls
• V4/6 on 25-degree walls
• V7+ on 45-degree walls (very easy to get harder grades) 
• TEXTURE: Rock-like granite texture